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uRADMonitor
KeymasterThe 2.2K couldn’t have harmed the circuit in any way.
KeymasterHi Hashy!
Don’t be too harsh on yourself.
If I got it right, what happened is that you pressed the tube against the middle clip and that punctured the tube?
The middle connector is there for those that want to use the shorter SI3BG tube, very insensitive, but better to offer it as an alternative.
The SBM20 which is supplied with the KIT, only needs the to far-end clips for support.
Now, if the tube is broken, it lost its internal gases and special pressure parameters, making it impossible to register any counts, exactly like you described. If touching the contacts results in counts, this shows your soldering skills are OK, and replacing the tube will get it working.
Sorry for this, I’ll make sure to add the SI3BG details to the next manual revision. Also, make sure the seller sends you a tested/working SBM20 tube, and not anything else (like STS-5, etc, some sellers are not serious about what they are doing).
And please post some pics, might be useful for others reading this. At least as a warning.
KeymasterAmazing work ecloud! Also thanks for the great feedback.
LE: also published on the project’s FB page: https://www.facebook.com/uRADMonitor/
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This reply was modified 9 years, 2 months ago by
uRADMonitor.
KeymasterThat looks good. Sorry for the confusion with the resistors, I’ll make sure to correct it in the next version of the PCB. As said, it was to preserve backwards compatibility for using the LM317 instead of the better LM1117 . And backwards compatibility is a pain, nearly every time.
Radu
KeymasterThat is personal information that can’t be made public by default.
KeymasterThat’s an excellent solution, Robert; the tube connectors should have been one size bigger. Will keep this in mind for the next batch, I used the correct size for my prototypes, but the factory which helped me with production, mixed up the sizes (those are 5mm fuse holders, should have been 6mm).
KeymasterI also sent you by mail versions of the firmware configured for lower inverter frequency (down to 6.5KHz). Please test them and let me know if it helps.
KeymasterHi Curt,
Here is the diagram of v102 : http://www.pocketmagic.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/uRADMonitor_KIT1.1_sch.png
The IC1 is the 1117 regulator, the ADJ pin needs to be connected to GND, that goes through R7, so make sure you replace it with a wire.
The R13 must not be connected. On the v103, the naming of R7 and R13 is reversed, wish I didn’t do that.
The idea with these resistors is that instead of the LM1117, you could use the LM317, and the resistors were chosen to give out 3V. On a next revision (104), these will be removed completely.
KeymasterI’ve seen this before, and the problem was related to the inductor. Try getting 2.2mH inductors from a different source, or ,as a quick dirty hack, put two 2.2mH inductors of the kind you have now in parallel.
We might get over this by changing the frequency the inverter operates at – drop me a mail so I can send you a test firmware that uses a lower frequency (that might get noisy).
KeymasterHey guys! Thanks for the feedback. Next edition will have better silkprint for those resistors, I’ll also take care to improve the manual’s print quality .
KeymasterHello Robert, sorry about that picture, didn’t notice it. I’ll have it replaced when I get the chance.
While a Geiger tube is just a two electrodes discharge tube and there is electronic charge requirements in that regards, the polarity is still important because of optimisations made in the materials used: the cathode is a large surface material responsible of electron emissions, while the anode works as a charge collector and is usually a tiny wire.
For some tips on installation, please see the article for model A, the facts there apply to KIT1 as well, except that the KIT1 doesn’t have an enclosure: https://www.uradmonitor.com/tips-for-installing-the-uradmonitor-unit/
If you plan to use a BME280, you’ll need it to communicate with the air outside. Some holes (at the bottom) are needed. For POE you can use a passive one like:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ethernet-PoE-Adapter-Injector-Splitter-Kit-Supports-5-12-24-48V-Power-over-/172236498811?hash=item281a18677b:g:8ykAAOSwepJXV9P1Or one that has built in DC-DC converters to increase the voltage for transport and then reduce it back to 5V at the end.
KeymasterHi Waheed,
I was just thinking about your unit as I saw it offline, then I saw this post. Sorry to hear.
Last data is from 05/30/2016 @ 11:04pm (UTC) , and the readings are fine:
temperature: 32.5C
cpm: 10 / 16 / 26 (normal)
voltage on tube: 382V (normal)
duty: 36%Everything looks fine. It doesn’t look like a failure. Check the network cable, the power supply and try connecting the unit to a different router. See if the LEDS (green/yellow) flash. Try connecting to your unit directly, opening its DHCP given IP in your browser (in the same LAN).
Feel free to ask if you need help with any of the above.
KeymasterJust send me the coordinates you want it to show at (in decimal formal) and the city name. There will be a feature to change the coordinates yourselves, directly, but it is not yet ready.
KeymasterOk, I changed it, now should be right on spot.
KeymasterHello Ruben, those are some excellent pics, please post a few in this thread as they definitely have a chance for winning! Some guys already did a 3D printed case, I’m trying to bring them here as well, so people can actually benefit of the beauty of open source. Got your requirement on BME280, and it’s now on my list.
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This reply was modified 9 years, 2 months ago by
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