I also managed to bend the legs of the fuseholder such that it’s possible to solder both ends, like Robert described. They strike me as quite a flimsy holder for the tube; but on the other hand, they are also too close to the mounting holes. So since they are so flimsy, it wasn’t too hard to bend them over a bit crooked, to make it possible to bolt the board into a case I designed, which is here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1644939 The case includes struts which, if you have bent over the fuseholders the same way I did, will help hold the tube in position, so that it doesn’t fall out.

I’d suggest using sturdier fuseholders, but also making the board just a little bigger, to get those mounting holes away from the tube. Also, it would be nice to have holes on all 4 corners, not just 3. Moving the ethernet module over might make it possible.

I will leave it plugged into the network at home most of the time I guess, but designed the case so that I can slip a Nokia BP-4L battery into the back, for checking other places around town, etc. 3.8V is too high, so I used a diode to drop it down around 3.2-3.3V. At least this way I didn’t need to bulk it up to make space for a pair of AA’s. But using this type of battery is fiddly. It’s nice that the battery can clamp onto the battery contacts in the phone, instead of needing spring-loaded contacts. But you need something resembling the contacts in the phone. I used diode legs as battery contacts. Maybe I should make a PCB which can hold the actual surface-mount Nokia battery contacts that can be found on ebay, and have the board double as the inside plane of the battery holder, and slot into the case somehow. It could have a battery charging controller too. For now I will need to use a separate charger.

Attached pics are simply the board during assembly. Thingiverse has more pics of the case design.

More pictures

And if you notice a dent on the right of the white front, near the screen, well… I accidentally drop-tested it from a good 1 meter height. Still works 🙂

I have soldered mine the case is waiting for me to have time to complete some upgrades to my 3d printer
There is an issue connecting to the network it doesen’t appear to be picking up an IP address.
I logged into the router the uRadmonitor is listed in DHCP table as expired.
The monitor is happily working in offline mode but I would rather resolve the issue so it can be mounted in a better location.

Here is a photo with the LCD removed
Back of board I have not cleaned the flux off yet:
I also have a BM280 module should I directly plug this in the header or run a cable and locate away from board?

Also note I had to replace the switch it was a bit dodgy and bumping board would cause power to switch off. The jumper is fine as this will ultimately be powered on most of the time 🙂

My unit is finally online !!
Very simple to build, great design !
My only last-minute difficulty was to get another usb power source. The one in my kit was for US plugs.
Now dreaming of a A3 kit ! (pcb+enclosure+difficult to source sensors ?)

Hi Radu,
I’m back online.
Thank you for your reply.
I think that I’m hitting some parameter limits of the soldered inductor or capacitors. There is a temperature related limit after which there is a big step in the duty cycle and the voltage regulation become very noisy.
Is it possible to have the exact models or parameters of the inductor and 1kv 10nf capacitors included in the kit ?
I would like to try NP0 capacitors and better rated inductor to try to get less noise an better regulation under temperature stress.
I would like to try this before pushing up the inverter frequency which could lower it yeld.

Other than this minor nit (I’m a little bit perfectionist ….), the unit is up for more than ten day now and it work beautifully.

Emmanuel.