December 7, 2016 at 2:58 pm #3832
Hello, I would like to buy my friend for Christmas this kit.
Unfortunately I do not find a shop anywhere.
Where can I order this kit?
Attachments:December 7, 2016 at 6:39 pm #3858
Hello Sandra, please order it on the Products page: https://www.uradmonitor.com/products/ . To get it before Christmas you should also add the “Express shipping” option to your chart.December 21, 2016 at 6:40 pm #3932
I was pleased to see some beautiful KIT1 constructions here, both on factory PCBs and DIY. This thread encouraged the development, and now we have a full open-source KIT1 on github, thanks to Akos and all of you.
Tomorrow evening I’ll select the winner of the A2 unit, randomly, from the list of those of you that posted their KIT1 units here on the blog.
For the lucky winner I’ll need a shipping address and a contact phone number so I can ship it on Friday.
Good luck to all of you!
Here is the list of those that posted pics with their KIT1 construction:
As said, it was a “competition, for all those that post their construction here. We’ll have some voting in place, and the nicest build wins a model A2 detector. DIY units go as well.”
For those that didn’t join this, there is still time to post pics with the KIT1 until tomorrow 6pm GMT+2 .December 21, 2016 at 8:49 pm #3933
My DIM (do-it-myself 🙂 version, still under development. I’m using a very sturdy Gainta enclosure for portability. I hope that my personal touches would not disqualify me from this contest!
The protective window has a narrow overlapping edge (grinded by hand, just like the opening hole) that prevents it from falling inside, should it be pushed hard from the outside (it would be glued anyway). The very edge of the edge will be chamfered to fit more snugly with the front panel.
I have recently dropped the idea of using the 8-pin connector of the LCD board; the LCD will use the 4 thick but pliable copper wires not only as a precisely 3D-adjustable support but also as electrical connections, together with another 4 flexible wires that will connect to the main PCB in various points – that would simplify my PCB design a lot (the enclosure is quite spacious, the PCB not as much).
The power switch is mounted on the side, under the enclosure’s shoulder, to protect against accidental flipping.
The center metal button has a white LED inside, that will blink in unison with the sound from the internal speaker. This button and LED will have internal counterparts (selectable via jumpers), to allow testing without having the cover in place.
Attachments:December 22, 2016 at 11:59 am #3939
This is my do-it-myself version of KIT 1.
I build this with a friend of mine. Idea was a portable Device with a high capacity lithium-ion Battery, which is build in the top of the counter.
-I used a Panasonic NCR18650B, with 3400mAh @ 3.7V for very long durability.
-To charge the KIT 1, we build in a micro USB jack with a 500mA Li charger IC. (So you can charge it up with any cellphone charger )
-This charger IC (TSOP8) and a few more parts in my version are in SMD. (This was a first step in make it smaller and more for poket use)
-I added a second Button for a better usability in menu and for future options. (and also for the gameboy look, which i like)
-I also added 2 more LED’s further to the bright blue event LED in the top of the KIT1. The red one is indicating the charging progress, the green indicates when the battery is full. So the Geigercounter (AVR and display) don’t have to be powered on.
The case is designed with Solidworks, a CAD tool and printet on a Ultimaker2. I know, the shapeliness of the geiger could be a little bit improved, but I’m not a professional and also not a desinger from Apple 😉
Future ideas i have about my KIT1 -> useing a ESP8266 WiFi module for logging the Data and transmisson via Wifi.
I hope you like my Version of the Geigercounter, feel free to ask me about it.
Greetings FridolinDecember 22, 2016 at 12:43 pm #3944
Sorry I’m new to this blog, how can I edit my post?
Attachments:December 22, 2016 at 5:24 pm #3950
The final list is:
Using random.org to generate a number between 1 and 14, gives us: 6
Congrats ecloud, you just won a uRADMonitor A2!December 22, 2016 at 7:12 pm #3951
Congratulations to ecloud, the winner!
Reading post #3932, I’m a BIT conFUSEd. It is mentioned a random selection but also a competition that decides a winner based on voting. Is that coming up?December 23, 2016 at 2:25 pm #3953
The A2 unit 41000008 was shipped to the lucky winner . Again, congrats ecloud!
@Outsider, this competition was without any voting, the participation only implied posting at least a photo with your KIT1 units. But thanks for the idea, for the next one, we should vote for the best construction!
Merry Christmas all and/or Happy Holidays!December 23, 2016 at 10:14 pm #3954
@Radhoo, thanks for your benevolence; it was not my idea, I just quoted from your #3932,
<<As said, it was a “competition, for all those that post their construction here. We’ll have some voting in place, and the nicest build wins a model A2 detector. DIY units go as well.”>>
Seems like I misunderstood that quote. I’ll look forward for future chances to win a nice kit! It’s really great that you are offering this to us!December 27, 2016 at 9:45 am #3956
My units (Unit 51000049) voltage has dropped to 180v is it possible to get a copy of the circuit diagram in a higher resolution that the manual?
The unit has been running fine up until early December do you have any tips where I should look first.
Moran.December 27, 2016 at 10:51 pm #3957
Hi Moran. I see it is now offline, with the last readings showing the low voltage. I suspect one of the high voltage caps / diodes might have failed. In some other situations, the inductor is the culprit or the MPSA42 transistor.January 7, 2017 at 3:29 pm #3977
@radhoo I received the A2 yesterday. It works great, and I’m glad to see that the temperature/pressure sensor is already installed. Thanks!
But that reminds me to install the BME on the Kit1, get back to trying to update the firmware and start adding features to it. So as a first step I tried to reproduce a working build. I started with the latest code from github, forked it, and wrote a Makefile to build it on Linux. I got a firmware built, flashed it, and it kindof works but some characters on the display are garbled, while others aren’t. It also doesn’t appear to have a functioning web server – it gets connected to the network but doesn’t respond when I try to connect from my browser. Today I fixed all the compiler warnings; that didn’t help. My fork is here https://github.com/ec1oud/uradmonitor_kit1
Any ideas? Has anyone managed to rebuild the firmware and start hacking yet?
Fortunately I downloaded the original firmware from the chip, so I can restore it and have it working again. That shows that there is no problem with the hardware or the fuses being set in prog.sh – it’s just a bug in the open-source version of the firmware, or that it compiles differently with my version of avr-gcc than it does with Radhoo’s version, or something like that.
Attachments:January 7, 2017 at 8:24 pm #3980
I was missing -funsigned-char – the display is working better now. The web server still doesn’t seem to be working quite right though.January 21, 2017 at 6:23 pm #4013
Sorry I’ve been caught with some other issues and didn’t have the time to follow this.
Did you do any progress?
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