January 24, 2017 at 3:41 am #4015MoranParticipant
I have swapped out the 10nF 1Kv capacitors and the unit is generating 380v again!
Will leave it for a week to make sure its stable them I may tackle the firmware upgrade to enable BME280
Moran.February 7, 2017 at 9:11 pm #4022ecloudParticipant
No, it’s still resetting periodically. Rarely, I can get the local webserver on the device to serve up one page, then it stops responding again. Likewise sometimes I can ping it, sometimes not.
I just merged some patches from Malte Pöggel on github, which fixed some issues, but not that one.
I wrote my first Go program, to poll the model A2 that I won, and post the data into InfluxDB. https://github.com/ec1oud/uradmonitor-influxdb-inserter I might make it into a daemon, but for now I just have it run from a cron job once per minute. Even better would be if I get the firmware to do this… it’s quite simple to use InfluxDB, just an HTTP POST. So I’ll be able to generate some graphs locally.
But the A2 is giving me temperature readings at least 10C too high. Right now it says 4C, and a simple mechanical thermometer on the same wall says -7C, while an online weather report says -9C. I can believe it’s not quite as cold as -9C, mounted on a wall outside, compared to a proper weather station in open air. But I figure either the A2 has a voltage regulator which is warming it up, or else it needs some calibration in firmware?
Malte built the firmware for me, and it works! Only difference is compiler version: I have avr-gcc 6.3.0 and he has 6.2.0.
But I ended up with a different ID, despite having set the ID in config.h (and Malte built it for me with that config.h). 13000208 instead of 51000053.February 8, 2017 at 6:33 pm #4023ecloudParticipant
Downgrading my compiler to 6.2.0 didn’t fix it.
Will keep poking around.February 9, 2017 at 7:58 pm #4027
Yes, with the Github code, the unit will use a dynamic ID. Make sure the fuses are set to preserve EEPROM, or you will loose your ID on every firmware upgrade (does EEPROM clean).
The A2 temperature can be affected by internal ENC28J60 and might need a linear compensation. We’ll take care of it.
Need to check what you guys did on github and merge the code. Please give me some time for that.June 5, 2017 at 9:18 am #4486
Here are the full compiler options:
avr-g++ -Wall -Os -fpack-struct -fshort-enums -ffunction-sections -fdata-sections -funsigned-char -funsigned-bitfields -fno-exceptions -mmcu=atmega328p -DF_CPU=8000000UL -MMD -MP -MF"$(@:%.o=%.d)" -MT"$(@:%.o=%.d)" -c -o "$@" "$<"August 5, 2017 at 9:57 pm #4733
A new firmware version has been released on Github: https://github.com/radhoo/uradmonitor_kit1 , closing some of the open issues.August 7, 2017 at 3:47 am #4739MoranParticipant
I finally had a chance to tackle the upgrade after spending a couple of hours on Win 10 I ended up using a Win 7 32 bit machine to build and load the firmware.
Now my unit is measuring Temperature, Pressure, and Humidity 🙂August 7, 2017 at 8:01 am #4740
Hi @Moran that’s great. Don’t forget to post a few pictures, and if you have a few tips on how to get it going, it might help others.July 27, 2019 at 10:34 pm #6679
Is there a specific reason for the inverter running at 13 kHz? My self-assembled kit1 couldn’t reach more than 310V at 90% duty but at 7 kHz it reaches relatively stable 400V!July 30, 2019 at 1:20 pm #6681
But there is no problem if mine runs better on 7 kHz instead of 13 kHz?July 30, 2019 at 7:27 pm #6683
Thanks for asking.
Is there even a filter capacitor in the high voltage section? Thought the 3 caps where for voltage doubling.
I added a 1 mF cap to the 3V line.
My units ID is 13000213. Yesterday looked very stable but today it kinda sucks maybe because it is very humid today.September 6, 2019 at 11:22 pm #6751Justy89Participant
Hey there. Radu said to post on the forums when I’m done, suppose this is it. 🙂 I’d like to thank him for the excellent documentation.
I built a lightweight, simplified unit based on Kit 1.2, which offers no online functionality or direct DC power, but is quite portable and rugged.
Made some slight changes to the board layout in order to make it easier to draw with a sharpie and etch at home. I’ll upload it if anyone’s interested.
Voltage was fine from the get go with a decently sized inductor, all components except the BYV26E were sourced in bulk using eBay.
I’ll complete a proper 1.2 kit in time (although I’m not sure how to actually sign it up). 🙂
Here’s some pics of the project.November 19, 2019 at 7:39 pm #6865FofodriloParticipant
nice… I´m interested in your changes! and also if you can recommend me the sources for the critical components (the inductor and the BYV26E) I would be very happyNovember 20, 2019 at 12:14 pm #6877Justy89Participant
Bought the BYV26E off TME.eu, the inductor was from eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20PCS-2-2mH-6x8mm-Magnetic-Core-Inductor/291617475270?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649February 24, 2020 at 4:34 pm #7035
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