A few important things you should all now:
1.Many reported the PCB moves inside the enclosure. This should have not happened, but the manufacturer left out some self adhesive tape that should have been installed on the inside, at the end with the LND712 tube (that requires extra care). Picture with the foam attached below. Please install such stoppers yourself, the board is 1mm shorter than the enclosure. Alternatively, you can force the tips of wood toothpicks between the PCB and the aluminium rails, cutting the extra.

2.The clicking sounds are for the Geiger Counter. They indicate a radiation pulse has been recorded. You can mute them in Settings

3. The LCD is “unstable” or “works intermittently”. The screen can either work or not work at all, but for the clicks on screen, please keep what you want to click, pressed a little longer. No need to force the screen, it is very sensitive and fragile.
The problem is the CPU is a bit low with all the many features added to the design. So sometimes , it is unable to process clicks as fast as we’d like. Once you connect to Wifi it will run smoother. Failing to connect burns CPU cycles.
Also the LCD uses a resistive touchscreen, not the capacitive one you’re used with from your mobile phones. The resistive ones require precise focused taps (using a stylus or the nail).

4. The reset button. It can be located using the picture attached. Use it if there are any issues with the unit.

5. Screen turning off. There is a 30seconds timeout to the LCD screen to save power. Tap the screen to turn it back on.

6. Battery normal voltage. The units have an internal Lithium Ion battery, and while the nominal voltage is 3.7V, the normal discharge path goes from 4.2V (more or less when fully charged), to about 3.2V. The uRADMonitor unit will turn off automatically when the voltage is below 3.4V, because there is a real time clock that needs the extra power.

7. VOC readings. The VOC numbers are not comparable from one sensor to another. There is no UM for VOC, and the manufacturers have different approaches on what they consider VOC. Normally the technology implies a sensor with an embedded burning filament (300*C) that consumes various gases from the air (both Oxidising and Reducing reactions), and as a result, the electric resistance changes.
On your D units, you see this electric resistance, in Ohms, fluctuating to air quality. Bosch did a great job with the BME680, as stability is a big issue on this approach and not many sensors are up for the job (tested many). A clean air is when the resistance is higher: no burned products contributting to conductivity across the sensor crystal. On the other hand, for polluted air we’ll see lower ohmic value. The quantities of detectable gases is listed on: http://www.uradmonitor.com/uradmonitor-model-d/
Now the good news is Bosch provided us a post processing BME680 software library that we are working to integrate on the server. Then, accessing your unit’s data from the server via the API (see http://www.uradmonitor.com/dashboard) , will give you the processed VOC readings as an air quality score index.
This library also does auto-calibrations to temperature and humidity data, that can be affected by the enclosure and the extra heating from the other components (battery, charger, wifi module, microcontroller).

(I’ll add more when needed)

The other day I took the top cover off of my D and put some tape on the inside of it and that’s definitely done the trick. I used 3m VHB tape, because that’s what I had, but any foam-core double-sided tape should do the trick; I didn’t remove the backing from the side that’s in contact with the PCB. The VHB tape that I have is about 1mm thick, and reinstalling the top cover was a firm fit, so it doesn’t need to be anywhere near as thick as what Radu attached as an example. The PCB is 100% stable now, I don’t have any issues with the USB port anymore, and the power-on button only protrudes slightly.

Please post some pics, this is of major interest.

I can’t be 100% sure, because I don’t have any photos, but I think the top plate might have been installed back to front on mine – i.e. with the holes for the Geiger tube (and GPS LED) on the wrong side. It’s probably worth everyone checking to make sure that the holes for the Geiger tube are on the left, when the display is facing you.

Yes, the circular holes must be in front of the Geiger tube. Please correct this if wrong.

I had an issue just now where I arrived home and the D connected to the wireless, after which I started a sync of the offline data from the drive home. The samples uploaded at a rate of about 2 samples per second, at which point I initially thought that the API must have had a dramatic performance improvement, however I discovered that none of the data uploaded and the dashboard was still reporting that the last data upload was as I left work. I disabled the wireless and re-enabled it and it connected this time but, of course, the offline data from the drive home is gone. Nothing of note happened, and I didn’t go out of my way to record any specific data, so I’m not too worried but there was obviously an issue with the wireless.

There is a hard-copy of the data, in the CSV files, this never gets deleted. I’m saying it just in case, but it’s becoming obvious to me that the sync feature must be improved.
I’ll reply to the other messages here:

Like Kurt, I’m finding the GPS to be unpredictable. I’m unable to predict when it might work or figure out how to orient it for greatest reliability; it’s basically fluke if I can position it so that it can achieve a lock.
Sitting in a cup holder that’s mounted quite high on the dash of my car, next to the centre vents, I can have 12 satellites on an overcast day and no signal on a completely clear day. Sometimes, when walking around the house, I’ll take it out of my jacket pocket to find that it has a lock with anywhere up to about five satellites but sitting on a counter in the kitchen, with the front facing outside, it has no lock – although standing on the kitchen table, a few metres from the counter and facing into the house, it will often lock on to 3-4 satellites.
A similar situation occurred just now when I was doing the grocery shopping. A few minutes after entering the store I took it out of my jacket pocket and saw that it had four of five satellites; I sat it in the bottom of the trolley (metal tubes with wire baskets in Australia) sitting on its back and it lost sync. It’s highly unlikely that that the trolley was behaving as a Faraday cage, since the wire spacing is quite large – about half the width of the D (when standing) and about the same depth.

We might try something here. Get one of these antennas:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/6-20-6-6x20x6mm-thin-small-active-GPS-antenna-VSWR-Active-antenna-high-signal-top-performance/32686638729.html
And replace the current ceramic antenna, under the plastic cover. It uses an IPEX connector, so it will snap in place. You might get better signal, and this would solve the problem.

I hope something can be done about the offline sync performance. On each of the last two work days I haven’t been able to upload live, which means that I’ve had 2840 and 3092 samples to upload by the time I arrived home; the 2840 samples took 5 hours and 20 minutes to upload last night, so I’m guessing that it’s going to take nearly 5 hours and 45 minutes tonight with a corresponding gap in samples. It actually started phantom-uploading yesterday (uploading quickly but not actually uploading at all), however poking the reset button and trying again after powering back up saw things happen correctly; fortunately, in this case, interrupting the upload caused it to start again and not lose any samples.

I will investigate it further, but it will take some time. We will need a new firmware to improve sync, hopefully the speed too.